A week ago I continued testing the ignition of parking heater with diagnostic commands. Last time I checked, it worked without the key in ignition using VIDA, so I took another shot with ELM327. No go. Ok, started injecting the periodic keep-alive message to CAN bus and tried again, but without any success. Then I put the key into position I, and what do you know, the heater started. It DOES need the key in the ignition after all, so there goes my plan to implement the remote control using the diagnostic commands. <insert swear words and cursing here/> My previous success with VIDA must have been because of some kind of inherent timeout in the CEM. Diagnostic codes and commands work for some period of time after the key is removed from the ignition, but after a while (maybe because of security reasons) the CEM stops responding to them.
There is a way to spoof the other modules into thinking that the key is in the ignition by overwriting the continuous status updates made by CEM about the key position, but there's no workaround when it comes to CEM itself. It would be like breaking into you own car. So I folded in front of this another unforeseen obstacle, took the path of less resistance and ordered the AEM module. It's going to cost little bit over 200 euros (including software updates to CEM and AEM itself), sure, but I didn't see any way beyond the key problem and I'd spent enough time tackling this one.
BTW. Guys in King of Thrones are wrong. The winter isn't coming. It's freaking already here! Few days ago the temperature went down to -22 celsius ( -7 fahrenheit)! And that resulted in the next system failure...
The parking heater stopped working. The day before this total failure it already gave a hint for the upcoming problem. For some reason it hadn't reacted to previously set timer, but did go off when starting it manually. Next day, I had set the timer again, but when I approached the car, I could see that everything was still frozen. Attempted starting the heater manually, and it did run for a minute or two, but then stopped again. Tried it for the third time, but the same thing happened.
Now after three unsuccessful start attempts the CPM goes into lock-down that can only be reset with VIDA or other expensive diagnostic device. Poor man's choice, Torque + ELM327 won't do, since they won't be able to query CPMs fault codes and reset them. So, my efforts developing the Sardine CAN and playing around with VIDA weren't total waste of time. Lucky me, except that I was visiting my parents' house and I didn't have the device with me, so I had to resort to firing up the engine in -22C since there isn't any additional heater installed in the car.
Except now the car would start. Motor would cough for a second or two, but then the start motor just continued to spin. Now I was starting to get pissed off. This sounded more like a battery problem or frozen fuel lines, since a problem in either one of those could affect both the motor and the heater. There was no low voltage light on the DIM lit, but I didn't have my multimeter to check the battery voltage. The artic diesel variety that is offered here in Northern Finland is supposed to handle at least -29C temperatures without gelling/waxing and clogging the fuel filter and the fuel lines. Anyway, I didn't have any way to pinpoint the problem at this stage. Luckily I managed to start the engine after covering it with blankets and letting two powerful heat blowers warm it up from below a bit. Even that took over 2 hours.
So I got home, connected my dear Sardine CAN, fired up VIDA and started snooping around. First, the fault codes:
Now that the fault code for heater (CEM-5F4F : Too many unsuccessful start attempts) was also been cleared, I was free to try starting up the heater, but with this time I had VIDA to guide me with troubleshooting.
Glow plug, combustion fan as well as water and fuel pumps were working normally, but the flame sensor read constant voltage. According to VIDA, voltages from 2.5 to 5.0 are interpreted as "no flame" and voltages below 2.5 volts mean there is a flame in the heater. The CPM waits for a while for the diesel to ignite, but after 1-2 mins it gives up, stops the heater and increments the error counter. So, either the flame sensor has broken down or is covered up, or the diesel fuel doesn't reach the heater. Anyway, the problem most likely isn't going to go away magically and repair shops usually ask between 400-600 euros + parts for the repair, so I think you're going guess where I'm going with this..
Next: Ardic tear-down!
Olaf,
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing all of your hard work! It's great to know there's others out there with this interest. I haven't done any probing on the vehicle side yet, but i've been studying the communication SQL tables from vida/vadis (addresses, status bytes, etc). Please keep up the great work, your results have re-inspired me!
Good Day,
ReplyDeleteOk so i have a problem with a car that i'm working on, and i surely wud love some assistance. 2003 Volvo V50. The car was flooded and after much adieu and head scratch replaced the ECU and the CEM (Replaced the EURO CEM with a US CEM)...anywho... no ignition occurs, Dash lights come on. Beyond that is it possible to copy the transponding chip info from the key to the fob so tht ignition can occur? I hope i'm not Hijacking a thread...please shoot an email with any info handel.k.waugh@gmail.com
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ReplyDeleteHi Guys. I have an EBERSPACHER Ardic 952B with VOLVO controll unit added (by prewious owner) to my Audi (A4B6) Few days ago - after 3th try of restating - auxiliary heater wasnt start no more. I had found reason. It was ice in exhaust pipe... But how to unlock this crap now? I was try to use K-line connected to KKL interface VAG-COM. Also some my friend tried help me with VCDS - and at last with VIDA (Vida says "no CEM" :))) . No success. What we doing wrong? I was asked as well at an Eberspacher workshop near me - but they advised to change ARDIC for EBER or WEBASTO - Bastards... :) Is there any way to solve the problem? Regards from ( still cold) Poland
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